Archive for September, 2007

Interview with RETO MATHIS: Europe’s Highest Altitude Gourmet Chef

Saturday, September 15th, 2007

If you haven’t had the immense pleasure of visiting St. Moritz, a prestigious mountain resort in the Engadine valley of Switzerland, where the jet/trend-setters of the world spend their winter days and nights simply playing, then you must put this on your own personal list of the 7 wonders of the world to see and experience before you…tuck your party shoes away!

There are so many unique events which make St. Moritz the icon that it is. From the annual Cartier Polo-on-ice event to the prestigious Gourmet food festival on the frozen lake, this winter wonderland has the best-of-everything life has to offer. No wonder that it has been the winter stomping ground for the social elite and their families for generations.

Reto Mathis is the son of the infamous Hartly Mathis who is personally responsible for changing the gastronomic experience of the Alpine catering trade. He began back in the 1960’s by taking over the existing Corviglia Restaurant located at the top of the mountain in the ski resort of St. Moritz. At the time the Corviglia consisted of a self-service restaurant with space for 240 guests along with a Cafeteria for 80 guests.

From the moment Hartly set eyes on the Corviglia he realised that this location had yet to reach its potential. His awareness that there was a niche in this particular market for Gourmet cuisine and his desire to put his culinary talents to good use, inspired him to introduce more sophisticated choices on his menu. He already was certain the elite clientele would understand and support his wish to experiment with his gastronomic offerings.

However, in usual Swiss fashion, his decision was met with opposition from the local community who believed that such changes were not necessary and would not be well received. Fortunately they were wrong! Hartly began with simple additions to his menu by adding an entrecote and soon to follow lobster, truffles and caviar became the normal offering for a lunch time break from skiing when visiting the Corviglia. In other ski locations throughout Switzerland, this dining concept might not have worked but for Mathis and his niche clientele, it was an immediate success!

Hartly ran the Corviglia restaurant for 25 years until his son Reto took over in 1992. Originally Reto had chosen to pursue a career in Electrical engineering, a popular choice for youngsters at this age, but he quickly realised that his passion was in the kitchen. Realising from a very early age that following in his fathers footsteps would not be easy, he realised that for him to be in the same trade he had two choices open to him: Either run away and form his own business, or stay and challenge what already existed! With his keen business sense he realised that to succeed in today’s culinary world, it is not just about being a good cook but also to be looking outside the box by investing, designing, marketing and PR. Through implementing such changes and staying on top of the game, Reto has been able to thrive in this highly demanding and competitive market. It probably does not hurt that he is handsome as hell and has a charming personality to boot!

What inspired you to become a Chef?
Initially I was interested in Electrical Engineering because this was a popular field at the time. After my Dad arranged an interview through one of his friends, from one of the big Swiss companies, I quickly realised this was not for me. I was concerned with how little time I saw my father when I was growing up as a result of his occupation and did not want to create the same life for myself. But it became apparent to me that this is what I love doing! I attended Lausanne Hotel School and knew that it was the Food and Beverage side of the industry that interested me. Rooms are a dead material which I couldn’t influence, but as a Chef you can see the results of your input right away. I then apprenticed at the Palace Hotel in Lucerne in the summer and at the Suvretta Hotel in St. Moritz in the winter. I also apprenticed under the legendary Anton Mossiman who has remained a close and personal friend.

How is your business affected by the fact that it is a seasonal location? The fact that it a seasonal business we cannot change. We do 95% of our turnover in the winter months from the beginning of December until mid-April. We keep our coffee shop open in the summer more out of goodwill as I have an agreement with the community to keep it open when the train is in operation.

How do you spend your time in the off-season?
My wife Barbara and I travel a lot! We do promotions, galas, catering and PR events. My wife Barbara is very involved in PR and has recently been responsible for a small range of merchandising items we are retailing.

What is the strangest request a customer has asked for?
One lady wanted fresh fruit salad with truffles all over it. So I gave her what she asked for!

I understand that you have two young daughters; do they have an interest in taking over your business one day?
My daughter Georgina who is almost 21 is currently attending the Hotel management school in Lausanne. And my daughter Camilla who is 19 has just completed her apprenticeship as a pastry Chef. Anything is possible!

What would your last meal on this earth be?
Sovaroff Truffle: this is goose liver, whole truffle, port wine, porcini mushrooms and gravy, covered in a puff pastry and baked for 20 minutes in the oven.

What do you always have in your refrigerator at home?
Champagne and a nice selection of cheeses!

Reto Mathis’s book: Hartly & Reto Mathis, “Mathis Food Affairs,” can be purchased at the Cookbook Cafe bookshop.

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